Category Archives: Educational, hair and beauty

Microlocs and Me: A Journey to Hair Freedom

Welcome to the Blog! My name is Bettye. I have 209 microlocs and today I am celebrating 3 years and 6 months of being loc’d!

WoW! Had I known at the start I would still be here enjoying and thriving on this journey I might have started a Vlog at the same time. Not because my journey has been free of obstacles but because I did not know how much this journey would mean to me above and beyond a way to style my hair.

It’s been two months since I have blogged. The first thing you might notice is the number of locs has changed. In recognition of having reached this goalpost on my loc journey, and because I did something really stupid in August, I felt it was time for me to count my locs. When I first counted my locs I used small black rubber bands to hold my 3 month old locs in groups of 20. I had 212 locs and I was happy. What happened? I am not sure. bundle each group. This is what I do remember. I combined 4 locs into 2 around my 3 month anniversary. I then started a new loc at the left side of my forehead. I thought the total was 212. In August, I decided to interlock my locs. I had not interlocked my entire head since February even though I had retightened the locs that make up my bangs during that time. I had been maintaining my locs by separating them and rolling or retwisting them. This method was working fine for my 4C hiar. It was not working for my 4 B hair as I was to discover. The 4B locs were thinning at the root. The strands of hair in the locs were compressing and forming a loose curl. I knew from previous experiments that tying a knot in the loc would result in slightly thicker locs from the point of the knot to the root of the loc. But, of the 3 knots I had made in thinner locs in August of 2024, I can still find the knots in those locs more than a year later. So knots were not my first choice to address loc thinning. I decided instead to interlock the thinning locs. I discovered a few things about my hair in the process.

First, the section of my hair that is 4B is confined to an area just below my crown across the back of my head. When I finished interlocking, I noticed this area is shaped like a rainbow across the back of my head. Very interesting. I have had this hair for decades now and never noticed this.

While I was interlocking the thin 4B locs I also interlocked most of the 4C locs as well. I missed about 30 of them. That’s fine. Those 30 will be the leaders in my new method for maintaining my locs.

Here’s the plan. I will be separating my locs daily. I do this automatically now. I separate my locs at the root after I spray them with water or finish a shampoo or when I sit in traffic. If and when I find a strand of hair lodged in the wrong loc, I tug on it to determine which end is in the scalp and which end is in the wrong loc. I pull the end that is in the wrong loc. I pull gently and I pull one strand at a time. This may sound tedious; but, when your hair maintenance routine takes maybe 5 minutes in the morning, you have time to pull one strand of hair at a time.

Occasionally, I will find a group of hairs sitting off to the side clumped near a loc. I use my finger tips to determine to which loc this group should be attached. Hallease, a YouTube content creator and traditional loc wearer, noted she always has an inch or so of new growth at her roots. She uses her fingers to interlock errant strands of hair in the right loc. I have used this technique with some success; so, I am not going to say I am no longer interlocking.

I also like taking the errant strands and separating them into two bunches and braiding the loc and the strands together. This technique is the maintenance technique Lola from Holistic Flo, also a YouTube channel content creator, uses to maintain her semi-freeform traditional locs.

Finally, my triumvirate of YouTube creators includes Lillian Okibe, who specializes in helping subscribers attain and maintain thick locs. Ms. Okibe has developed an online course which I subscribed to during my first year of my loc journey to get as many ideas as possible about how I would maintain my locs. Ms. Okibe, a microloc wearer, encourages DIYers to maintain their locs so they have roots that are thick without interlocking.

Whether or not I would maintain my locs myswelf has never been a question. I tried during the pandemic to get a loctitian to establish my locs but I was unsuccessful. Honestly, there weren’t a lot of hair salons open, so, I understand why no one got back to me for months. Fortunately, I had YouTube content providers to help me get started. Also, it helped that I choose to use two strand twists to start my locs. I had more shrinkage than if I had started with braids or interlocking; but, I also had confidence knowing I could easily change my mind with two strand twists. In fact that ease to removing the twists helped me to remove the first set I established in March of 2022. I had 96 locs and the shrinkage made me think I needed more locs. I am glad I let my self change my mind. The 200 or so locs I established in April of 2022 has been just the perfect number for me.

This August, I decided to retighten my locs. I was going to my niece’s wedding and I wanted my locs to look as sharp as they were going to look. Let’s just say for me, sleek edges has seldom been a goal. I set up my retying tools and towel in front of the family room TV to watch football while I retied. I decided to have a drink because that’s how we were watching the game on that particular day.

Things were going fine until they weren’t. I had interlocked three (3) small locs together and I could not undo the tie. At first I panicked. Then I thought, give it a little time and you will be able to release the locs. Sure enough the following week before I washed ny hair, I was able to stick the end of a porcupine quill into the knot and worked the three locs loose. I believe a metal rattail comb would have done the same task.

I then decided to interlock the three separately but loosely as I had done the other 4B locs. The hardest part about interlocking the 4B locs is/was making the second entry into the side of the loc because the curl of the 4B locs is more flat and wide as opposed to curly and round like the 4C locs.

I interlocked the first of the three loosely so as to maintain as much width or volume at the base of the loc. In the process of interlocking the second loc, I tied both locs two and three together again. I thought, OK once again I will give it a week and see how my hair grows. I hoped the interlocked knot would come out as easily as the earlier knot.

I was not to be so lucky. A week later and I could not feel the separate strands making up the now two headed dragon loc. I tried, and failed and became frustrated. I noted that the root of the two headed loc was not much bigger than the one I had safely interlocked. I began to realize those two locs were supposed to be one. Eventually, I tied the two locs together very tightly down the length of both locs. One loc was at least an inch shorter that the other. I cut off the end of the shorter loc and teased some of the strands a loose. I then tried crocheting the loose strands into the new loc.

Crocheting the locs did not work for me. A day or two later the loose cut ends were sticking out of the loc. I tried to get the ends to stay inside the new loc but they wouldn’t stay. I washed my locs a couple times then noticed that there were spaces between the knots. I decided to try repairing the loc again. This time I took out all of the knots …all except for the knot that turned two locs into one. I wet both sides and twisted them tightly together. Once again I unraveled the ends and braided the bundles of hair and loc together. So far, so good. How do you repair your locs? New techniques are always good to learn.

Well, the reality that I have 209 locs and not the 211 locs I was anticipating, was a surprise. This time when I counted my locs, they were long enough that I could count out 20 locs, make a group of that 20, take one loc and wrap it around the group to make a bundle. Earlier, I must have miscounted. Obviously, I had 210 locs and not 212. I know because I recounted each of the ten bundles to make sure I didn’t miss any. That was tedious. In any event, I have not lost any locs in my 3.5 years as a loc’d girlie. I am proud of the care I have given my locs. Have you lost any locs ? Do you know how you came to lose them?

My maintenance routine has changed just a little over the past year. Last winter, I began using conditioner on the shaft of my locs to help keep them moisturized. During the spring and summer I have not needed to use conditioner. I am still using Dr. Bonner’s liquid castile soap diluted 1:1 as recommended on the bottle as my clarifying shampoo. One lather is enough. Cécred Hydrating Shampoo or Nexxus Hydrating Shampoo are the two shampoos I use after rinsing out the Dr. Bonner’s. In the spring, I applied a little oil to my scalp following my shampoo and towel drying my hair. In the summer, I stopped using the oils because I noticed that my scalp would itch on the second or third day after the shampoo. When I did not add oil, I had no itching. Now it is autumn, I will have to see what my hair and scalp need.

I have decided that I like the way my locs frame my face when I keep my bangs maintained at or just above my eyebrows. Earlier this year in February I cut layers into the locs along the sides of my face. This gives my locs a very finished look everyday. I have gotten used to having hair on my neck and shoulders. I also enjoy having hair on both sides of my face. This is a surprise because as a loose natural I often wore a side part. These are all new looks for me and I am enjoying the journey. Being able to wear my hair out and loose has been the easiest hairstyle for me. After three and a half years, I have yet to grow tired of it. What techniques have you discovered to help you style your locs?

I do style my hair for special occasions; but, often the weight of the hair on my head becomes uncomfortable. I usually take down updo hairstyles in the car on the way home from the event. Before the hair comes down, however, I am enjoying every minute of having long hair to play with and style. And to think it has only taken three and a half years.

Here are two recent photos taken in New York City at the end of September. My daughter, whom you have heard me speak of, is the beautiful woman with the very long Sisterlocks.

How long have you been loc’d? Please drop the length of time you have been loc’d and where you are located in the comments. If you’re not loc’d please consider this your sign to start your loc journey. Locs are not for everyone; but, you won’t know if they are for you if you don’t try them on.

Thank you for sharing the journey! See you next month.

Bettye

Microlocs and Me: 2.5 years Loc’d Lessons Learned 2.0

Last month I was overwhelmed by the enormity of my accomplishment. I established my microlocs on April 2, 2022. I DIY’d them. I did not ask a loctitian to establish my grid. I decided the general number and the method – two strand twists. I did it my way!

I have been obsessed with my loc’d hair ever since. Last month, I mentioned a few things I have learned. Honestly, this whole blog is about things I have learned about locs – my locs specifically. It’s been quite a growth experience.

Prior to locking my hair, I had been natural for ten years. During that time I cared for my hair myself. One of the reasons for going natural was to keep from spending hours each month at the hair salon. It was always an expensive undertaking and my hair never came out of the salon looking the way I wanted it to look. Giving up on hair salons was a positive aspect for me becoming a loose natural.

Loose Natural Fears About Locs

I did not know the term “loose natural” until I began investigating the possibility of locking my hair. At first, I was fearful of locking my hair myself. I thought it would be really easy for me to waste my time locking my hair and ultimately be unhappy with the look. Or perhaps, locking my hair and finding I really wanted different sized locs.

Fear of not being happy with 96 traditional locs led me to establishing microlocs. I had sectioned off 96 two strand twists in March of 2022 to start my loc journey. I had seen about 100 loc videos by that time. Despite having thick or high density hair, the scalpiness of 96 locs was not lost on me. The other big question for me was, “Would I have enough locs to style my hair in all the ways I might possibly want over the next 10 to 20 years?” I thought not. It then occurred to me that I could simply combine my locs if I had too many. So, I washed my hair and took down my first set of locs.

Grid or Parting Mistake

This next part was the mistake. I took out each two strand twist and divided it into 2 or 3 parts. Some of these parts had diagonal sides due to my attempt to make the locs more or less of equal size. Later these diagonal lines would prove to be a hazard when interlocking. The strands of new growth hair in these sections seldom seem to know where they belong. Over the years (that sounds so good) I have learned to wrap these sections of new growth around the appropriate loc before interlocking or locksmithing.

Loc Maintenance

I have learned that my tender headedness is much more intense with locs. This is common. However, my tender headedness is not so intense when I have an inch or so of new growth. So for the holiday season ahead, I have already stopped interlocking my locs and have begun retwisting them. The retwisted locs will unravel if I wash my locs without twisting and banding them first. 8 twisted and banded sections of hair are usually enough to wash my scalp and locs. If I choose not to twist and band before shampooing, I can always do it afterwards. It takes me an hour to an hour fifteen minutes to twist each of my 212 locs. This is nothing compared to the 4 days of interlocking I usually have. Don’t gasp. I do not interlock or retie my hair all at once. I learned that I lost patience and began retying my locs in a sloppy fashion after an hour or so. I then made really bad mistakes. It was better to retie a few sections of hair a little while each day.

Locksmithing

Pauline Walker, YouTube content creator of the En Toi Beauty channel, is a gifted loctitian and communicator. She says it takes 6 months to 2 years for your hair to loc. Armed with this information, it is easier for me to locksmith my locs regularly; retwist when needed to keep my locs’ integrity and interlock when I need to. I interlocked this year so that I could swim. The pool is closed now. I can wash my hair once or twice a week with the banded method and maintain my locs’ until next summer.

I have learned that cutting and tearing your locs while interlocking them is not a healthy loc maintenance plan. The sound of snapping strands while retightening is anathema to longterm loc health. It’s better to retwist your locs as needed to keep the locs separated. When you interlock make certain all extraneous hairs are away from the loc you are working on. Use clips to hold the other locs out of the way.

I have also learned a lot about moisturizing locs. I wonder if this same information can be applied to loose natural hair with the same results. We may never know. The loc community is not definitive when it comes to moisturizing practices. Some advise that no water be applied until after a given time. I washed my locs at 3 weeks because my scalp itched so badly. I chose to ignore that caveat. Consequently, I have not lost any locs. I enjoy standing in the shower letting my locs get soaked on any given day… not just on wash day.

Distilled Water

Distilled water has been the best loc beauty aid.I have learned that well water, even though treated by a whole house filter, may still deposit chemicals in your hair. Often, crispy hair can be caused by chemicals in the water. It can be resolved with a spray of distilled water. Distilled water can be added to Rosewater you buy at a 50/50 ratio. I find this extends the rosewater and does not result in a film on my hair. Rosewater and Glycerin is a good hair additive during the fall and winter where I live in Maryland. The glycerin grabs humidity from the air; however, I find I must mix it 50/50 with distilled water. If I do not add distilled water, a sticky residue develops on my locs when I apply this 2 days in a row.

Rosemary Water

I like to make rosemary water by boiling 3-4 stems of rosemary in a quart of water. Let the rosemary water steep until the water is brown. Add additional distilled water to this mixture if you find it to be too strong a fragrance. I like to spray my locs with rosemary water before putting on a shower cap and taking a shower. When I exit the shower, my locs are moisturized and ready to go.

Finally, I have learned that locs are beautiful around the world…or at least in the countries I have visited. I used to be surprised when someone would stop me to tell me they like my hair. I have learned to look at the person complimenting my locs and see their hair. Now, I will usually say, “I like your hair too!” There’s nothing wrong with a mutual admiration between two people. If you have locs, have you gotten used to the questions and comments that frequently come with locs? Have you developed a response? What do you say?

I’m looking forward to what the next month on locs will look like for me. As you can see, my goal of length retention is coming through.

Best wishes, Bettye

Microlocs and Me: A Woman’s Loc Journey

I am thirteen months into my loc journey and I am obsessed with my hair. As a black woman in America in 2023 I think that is making a strong positive statement. I had the idea of writing a blog within days of starting my loc journey simply because the novelty of being in love with my hair was completely new to me. I was excited to share this process so that more people, …well, yes, more women of color… would try locking their hair and consequently fall in love, too. Like religion, when you find a good thing you just want to share it with anyone who will listen.

I am noticing there are more women on newscasts with dreadlocks or locs. I believe this is progress. Seeing a hairstyle on television helps make that hairstyle more accepted in the general public. It is becoming more common to see a black actor or actress with braids, natural hair and occasionally locs. On East New York (CBS) a few weeks ago there was a mother of a murder victim with locs. The actress wore her hair pulled into a ponytail at the base of her neck throughout the episode but she had locs.

It is still a worthy effort to normalize locs currently.

Semi Freeforming

I mentioned that I was engaging in an experment – the semi freeforming experiment. In this experiment, you stop interlocking and retwisting your hair as a means of maintaining your locs. Several YouTube loc ladies are semi freeforming – Holistic Flo, Amber Loryn and LaurenNicole are three whom I follow and recommend. Note that these ladies do not have microclocs. They do however describe their own loc journey maintaining locks with minimal loc manipulation. Based on their channels, I believe they do not retwist their locs every one to two months. I believe their maintenance is more separating their locs every three to six months.

The one thing I have noticed consistently is that there are no hard fast rules for semi freeforming. The only requirement seems to be allowing your locs to form on their own with manipulation as needed to keep your locs from joining together. Even in this loose context there was a lot for me to consider. I have mentioned that I did not understand how twisting your hair would cause it to loc. I knew the hair on my crown would unravel. The curl pattern is looser there. I thought the hair in the back of my head would lock easily. My sister had joked when I began my journey saying that my hair would lock in 3 months. I thought that would be three months of me re twisting loc after loc; so, I decided I would maintain my locs by interlocking.

I interlocked each of my baby locs at about one and a half weeks because I was already seeing unraveling and I did not want to have to re-establish my foundation grid. I interlocked again at 4 weeks. This time in order to get 2 rotations in each loc I ended up interlocking my hair close to my scalp. My scalp did not appreciate it. The tension from my tightened locs irritated me and my scalp ached for about a week. I promised my self I would never retighten my locs so close to the scalp again.

About this time on my loc journey I discovered Yannie, the Locologist on YouTube. Yannie has a well deserved reputation and following on YouTube. She typically posts videos about mistakes people have made with their locs and better still, she gives advice on how to combat the problem. One of Yannie’s truisms is don’t retwist or interlock your hair every 4 weeks. She brings the message home by showing how people have damaged their locs by retightening or retwisting too often. Some of her clients only get their hair retwisted every 6 months. Since I love to run water through my locs when I shower, retwisting is not a long term maintenance option for me. I will retwist with water if I have hair growing away from my locs and I am not ready to interlock. I see now how retwisting encourages the loc to grow in coils.

Spraying my locs with water helped relieve some of the tightness. I believe it helped because the heavier, wet locs pulled away from my scalp just a little. During this time I would spray my scalp with water and then apply oils to my scalp almost every day.

I did better with my retie at 8 weeks. My retie at 12 weeks was a bit of a fiasco. I managed to tie one lock in with another loc. It was very difficult getting my loc unconnected. In frustration I used scissors to cut a few strands. Months later these strands would refuse to join a loc and several times the strands were braided into the correct loc. At one year loc’d those strands were braided and interlocked (for the umpteenth time) into the right loc and it seems that finally this is where they will stay.

Pauline, the YouTube loctitian behind En Toi Beauty, has said that if you have Sisterlocks or Microlocs you are not a good candidate for semi freeform locs. My locs are pretty chunky for microlocs; so, I thought I would prove her wrong or at least test her theory. At 7 months loc’d most of my hair decided to grow into the locs. There were plenty on the top of my head and on the sides that had not committed despite having been interlocked. In November of 2022 I decided not to interlock any more and see if my hair would lock while staying separated. I have loved the feel of my locs since day one. Everyday, I run my fingers through my locs and feel the base of each one to make sure there is no marrying. When I found locs tangling together, I would very carefully pull the hair strands out of the wrong loc, I do not pop my locks because I would rather not have to weave in the broken hair ends as the strands grow longer. When I have come across strands of hair that have come out of the loc or grown our of the loc, I split the errant strands into 2 sections and braid them with the loc.

In February 2023, I panicked. There were about 8 locs with hair growing outside of the locs. There was a lot of new growth and I had continued to run water through my hair while I showered. No braiding. No banding. My routine is simple.I separate my locs under running water, squeeze out the excess water after my shower and dry my locs with a microfiber towel.

I decided to pivot. Did I mention that locs are very freeing? Locs are very forgiving and they will let you pivot. I chose to interlock my hair instead of continuing on my semi freeforming journey at that time. It occurred to me that my locs had changed in ways I had not anticipated so perhaps I would have a freeforming journey later.

I notice that my locs in the back have not locked in 3 months of low manipulation. I decided to see how long I could let my locs go between retightenings. In February I interlocked my entire head. Two months later in April I interlocked the crown and the sides only. The locs in the back were doing fine. None were trying to marry a neighbor and all of the hair was growing inside the locs. So, the experiment continues.

Currently, I am enjoying the frizzy roots in between retightenings.